The first thing I generally want to know is whether the album is a first pressing or a re-issue. Collectors will pay huge sums to get their hands on an original Lexington Ave. Blue Note or a Beatles first Parlophone pressing. (An original stereo copy of the Beatles' Please Please Me, in decent condition, will easily fetch $5,000.) These albums are often valuable because they didn't press many copies of the first edition. And most are so old that's it's very difficult to find a copy in top condition. Many collectors and audiophiles also believe that earlier pressings sound better, since they are closer to the original master tape. You can find plenty of discussion of these topics on the internet.
I'm not usually interested in having a first edition just for its own sake. I collect music, not albums. And given the prices that original pressings command, I'd much rather have 10 or 20 later pressings for the same price as one original copy. In the case of the Beatles, for the cost of one original Please Please Me, you could buy both the recent stereo and mono remastered box sets, and have enough money left over to fly to London and take a photo of yourself in the crosswalk at Abbey Road.
Bop Till You Drop |
In order to find out whether you have a first pressing or later release, the first place to check is Discogs. Though it is crowd-sourced and has some errors, it is still the biggest and best on-line database of recorded music. When you search for your LP, Discogs will show a list of releases and re-releases by year. For popular albums, it's not unusual to find more than 100 different versions, including different formats, re-pressings, and international pressings. For our purposes - vinyl - the differences in the releases can be very minor, such as a different pressing plant. Or the changes can be major, including a different title, different art on the label or jacket, the addition of bonus tracks, or a remastered version.
Because of all the different releases, it is often difficult to tell exactly which pressing you have. Helpfully, most Discogs entries have photos of the jackets and labels, which can narrow things down considerably. Changes in label design are a pretty reliable way to date your album. For example, Warner Brothers used a green label with an orange and blue WB shield logo from about 1970-1973, and then switched to what's known as the "Burbank" or "palm tree" label from 1973-1978. Lots of popular albums by the Doobie Brothers and Grateful Dead (just to name a couple of bands) came out originally on the green label, and were repressed on the Burbank label. However, it's not always so simple. There are entire books written about the minute label changes for Blue Note Records.
One of the best sources of information about label design is the blog
LondonJazzCollector. They guy who runs the site has posted great guides that document the changes in label design over the decades for most of the important labels. (LJC is also a gold mine of information about jazz LPs in general. The forums feature contributions from people who are extremely knowledgeable and passionate about jazz recordings.) Still, even after you've identified your particular release, you'll often need to examine subtle changes to the label and check the information in the dead wax to find out more.
Bell Sound Mastering Lab, New York. The f at right indicates that the engineer was Sam Feldman. |
When I first began to look at the information in the dead wax at the end of the album sides, the stampings, symbols, initials, numbers, letters, and scratchings seemed like a foreign language. Or maybe better, a kind of code. After years spent trying to read and decipher these markings with a magnifying glass, I started to keep a list. I also scoured the internet for clues. Discogs has an active and lengthy list. There are also dozens of topics about deadwax notations on the Steve Hoffman forum. I copied every source I could find, added dozens that I was able to figure out by checking the album credits, corresponded with a few mastering engineers to ask questions (in my experience, they are extremely kind and willing to respond) and now have a list of deadwax abbreviations and symbols that is 18 pages long. Some of the stamps and markings show up fairly regularly and are easy to identify. Others are initials or little drawings inscribed as a signature by the mastering engineer who cut the lacquer or as identifying marks for the mastering house or pressing plant. Even with 18 pages of notes, I still find new markings all the time.
Allen Zentz Mastering Lacquer by Brian Gardner |
Mastered by Chris Bellman |
David Turner |
Another one of my favorite signatures are the eyebrows used by David Turner (above, and not to be confused with Gardner's bird wings.) Many of the most active and well-known mastering engineers used their initials, and if you go through a stack of albums you're almost sure to find some with signatures by RKS - Ryan Smith; RL - Robert Ludwig; LH - Lee Hulko; KG - Kevin Grey; BK - Bill Kipper; GK - Gilbert Kong; GP or Porky - George Peckham; RJ - Ray Janos; or Wally - Wally Traugott. If you're really lucky, you might find a classic jazz album cut by RVG or the great Rudy Van Gelder. If you do, by the way, buy it!
Mastered by Ryan K. Smith at Sterling Sound, NYC |
Artisan Mastering |
Of course, there are lots of other squiggles in the deadwax besides the initials of the mastering engineers. Nearly all mastering houses and record pressing plants used markings to indicate who cut the lacquer and where the album was produced. Above, next to Robert Ludwig's initials, is the Q-shaped stamp used
Specialty |
Monarch Record |
Mastered by Rudy Van Gelder, Englewood Cliffs, NJ |
Mastered by Wally Traugott |
United Record Pressing, Nashville, TN |
Pressed by Capitol Records, Scranton, PA |
And finally, knowing how to decipher the deadwax information or gauge pressing rings will mark you as a knowledgeable collector, which is certain to impress your friends and your local record store dealer.
Enjoy the music!